The
year, 20 something, as I boarded a plane headed for Africa via Amsterdam, I
thought of the eight months I had spent planning the trip and the newspaper
headlines heralding the uprising in Kenya.
Everyone advised me not to make the excursion at this time, but the
excitement I had won out and I was heading for a Third World Nation.
The
long flight was at the least boring and the food served on the plane was
totally indescribable as to what it was and was as bland as one can
imagine. The airline did serve some nice
beverages and that was a great help in making the flight at least a little
tolerable.
Arriving
in Kenya , their airport is
not exactly state of the art, the arrival area was comfortable warm,
surprisingly clean and painted a Dijon
Mustard yellow. Stepping into the
terminal, before we reached Customs, we encountered our first African. He was obviously a soldier as he approached
us with a loaded rifle hanging from his cami uniform. “Welcome to Kenya . Where are you from?” Some in California should speak such good
English! “The United States ” we replied. “Which state?”
“California .” A knowing grin spread across
his face. “Anaheim.” “Disneyland” he said.
I asked had he ever been there and he said he had never been out of
Africa. He mentioned the current political situation and thanked us, putting
out his hand and again thanking us for coming during this most trying of
times. We sailed through customs and
stepping outside we were greeted by our tour guide who whisked us to a local
hotel for the night.
The
next morning we began the tour of a lifetime…Africa . We first learned that the company that was in
charge of the next two weeks or so had assigned us a local tour guide that had
never been out of Africa and he spoke eight
languages fluently. They also limit the
number of people on any given tour to the number in your party. Two, just two and the tour guide….WOW.
For
the next two weeks we traveled the country sleeping in the most elegant tents
you have ever experienced. They offered
two Queen size beds, hot showers, flushing commodes, electricity for our
computer and digital camera recharge units.
Most of the electricity was generated via Solar panels. The first two nights our beds contained hot
water bottles and as we moved across the country we found chocolates on our
turned down beds and on one occasion we actually had a chandelier in the tent.
We
traveled to Nairobi ,
Amboseli, Ngorangoro, The Serengeti, Masai Mara and Naivasha. Our first day out our guide promised a genuine
African Massage. Little did I suspect
that meant a very bumpy ride on dirt roads that featured numerous trenches
created by running water.
All
of the food was prepared by cooks stationed at the final destination of the
day. We assume carrots are a major agricultural
feature of the country as we find them in every form for breakfast, lunch and
dinner. Breakfast usually consisted of
eggs cooked to order, scrambled regardless, dry cereal, delicious fresh juice concoctions,
rolls, potatoes and of course, carrots with fresh delicious red tomatoes. Lunch
was almost always fried chicken, a hard boiled egg, some fruit, a cookie and
something sweet that consistently liked to stick to the roof of your mouth and
a cartoned fruit beverage, similar to Hi C but with basically no outstanding
flavor. Dinner varied nightly from
steak, veal and foul with a crisp salad, soup and dessert. Cream of carrot soup was delicious as was
many of the other soup creations we encountered. Dinner was always at 7:30 when the darkness
takes over and although you have a lantern to guide you, seemingly from
no-where a Masai Warrior escorts you to the dining area only to disappear into
the night until you are ready to return to your tent. Our most delicious meal was near the end of
our journey when we had Spaghetti and Meatballs. Outside of what Grandma made, we never had it
so delicious. Delicate flavors of
various spices and fresh tomatoes could be identified as we tore through this
dinner and our second helping. Our final
night found us at a tourist trap called Carnivores. The food here was excellent and was brought
to your table by various staff carrying huge kabobs with such treats as beef,
chicken, ostrich, alligator, veal---you get the picture and they kept returning
until you removed from view a small flag on your table. Then they topped off dinner with dessert, ice
cream was my choice but they offered some devilishly good chocolate treats,
which I kind of sampled. The restaurant
had what we would consider house cats walking around everywhere, but I truly
believe they were actually appetizers for the wild animals you could hear in
the area.
The Masai are really not warriors,
rather they are farmers, but at night they stood watch, silently in the
darkness ever aware of the many animals that would drop by during the
night. In the morning before they
cleaned the area, they would point out where lions, zebra’s, elephants,
giraffes and numerous other animals had ‘dropped by’.
Everywhere
we traveled we would see children tending cattle what seemed like in the middle
of no-where, which it was with no sight of housing anywhere. Most of the youngsters were dressed in school
style uniforms while others were colorfully in blankets that depicted local native
garb. From the age of two, this ‘Third World Country’ requires all children to attend
school and they all learn two languages and speak them both fluently. The kids are shy but if we waved from our
vehicle, they would give us a great smile and wave feverously. We walked with the Masai to a local school
about a mile away and found a bare building, with only a chalk board, with a
lot of English on it, a couple of desks and chairs. The floors were dirt and a dry warm air
flowed through the windows that had no glass, just an opening for air flow. About forty kids stood around waiting to walk
home. They were extremely shy, but when
spoken to, they did so showing excellent manners and huge smiles as they showed
off their English speaking skills. This
particular school had a sign declaring school supplies, books, pencils, tablets
and sporting equipment was supplied by a Baptist Church program in America. As the
rain begins to pound the earth and thunder and lighting required our immediate
attention, the Masai retrieved a colorful cell phone from his belt and called
for a vehicle as the storm was too unpredictable for us to walk back to our
base camp.
Finally,
the trip was really about the animals and here our tour guide excelled. We were challenged by an enormous elephant as
we entered his territory and marveled at the gentleness the lions showed as
they played with their cubs. On more
then one occasion we were face to face and that means less then a yard away
from many of the lions we encountered and they glanced at us never showing fear
and they were never intimidating.
We floated past hippo’s in a huge pool
and were constantly entertained by baboons which were everywhere. Zebras were everywhere and gazelles seemed to
gracefully float by with rapid speed. We
stopped for a baby, about six inch, turtle as he walked along our road and
marveled at a sea of flamingos as they stood silently in a lake created by a
dead volcano centuries ago. There was a
strange beauty in fully matured warthogs that crawled on their front knees in
search of food and hyenas that tore into their prey unfretted by our proximity
to them. There is a beauty to this vast
dirt bowl that was best seen after the sun had beautifully set in the distance
with those tiered trees that grace the land creating a silhouette that will
never be forgotten. Then on the horizon
you see against the darkness elephants slipping by in a silence that yells out
to you. The silence of the evening is
broken by the sounds of the animals and we are amazed at the voice of the
zebra. It is high in pitch and very
distinctive. Alligators study us as we
walk across a bridge the locals use to get to the nearest town. It sways with every step and you hold on so
you wont fall below into the water and the waiting gators.
As
you travel the area and learn to enjoy as best you can the daily African
Massage, you can’t help but asked why would anyone want to destroy or harm
these amazing animals that adorn this country.
A final encounter only intensified the question as I came face to face
with a full grown giraffe, which by the way is considered the most dangerous of
animals. I hand fed him and gave him a
hug and his huge neck lowered its head and gave me a big, wet, sloppy kiss.
Wild animals, of course, but being next to
them, in their territory, sometimes with vultures quietly eyeing us as they
passed overhead, you gain an appreciation that nature can be gentle and kind
and that an adventure of a lifetime, even with humans fighting each other
nearby, is coming to a close filled with pictures tattooed on ones brain for
life, hospitality totally unexpected and children filled with love and the
amazing ability to live in a third world nation, supposedly filled with
poverty, and yet you listen to their ability to speak two languages, and see in
their faces their desires, their hope for a brighter tomorrow. I will probably never return to Africa but
look forward to another time, soon that I will visit Israel.
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